Fabric and Textile Labels FAQs

Cotton names the fibre; twill names the way the yarns are woven together. They describe different aspects of the same cloth, so the terms do not conflict. Cotton can be used in plain, twill or satin weaves. When comparing an altar cloth or pouch, read the fibre content and construction separately rather than treating either word as a complete material specification.

Further reading: National Cotton Council.

Woven fabrics interlace yarns, while knitted fabrics join loops of yarn. These are construction methods, not names for a particular fibre. A fine T-shirt fabric can be knitted even when it does not resemble a chunky jumper. For clothing, check the stated construction alongside the measurements and fit information. The word knitted alone does not tell you exactly how much a particular garment stretches.

Further reading: CottonWorks; CottonWorks.

Plain weave alternates yarns over and under one another. Twill produces diagonal lines in the fabric structure. Satin weave uses longer stretches of exposed yarn, called floats, to create its characteristic smooth, lustrous surface. These names describe construction rather than a printed motif. When comparing cloths, keep the weave description separate from photographs of their decorative symbols, colours or overall design.

Further reading: CottonWorks.

Not necessarily. Woolmark distinguishes woven wool velvet from knitted wool velour. In its velvet example, two fabrics are woven together and then separated by cutting the connecting yarns, leaving the raised pile. If you are comparing a pouch or garment, ask whether its fabric is woven or knitted and check the fibre content. A plush-looking photograph is not a complete construction description.

Further reading: Woolmark.

In technical weaving language, damask describes a cloth structure, not simply an ornate-looking design. Its pattern is formed through the weave, commonly by contrasting areas that show more warp or more weft yarn. A product described only as damask-style may need clarification. For an altar cloth or decorative pouch, ask whether the design is woven into the cloth rather than judging by the motif alone.

Further reading: Humphries Weaving.

No. Embroidery can be sewn by hand or produced with an embroidery machine. The word describes decorative stitching, not who guided every stitch. A machine-embroidered moon or lettering is still embroidery. If the method matters for a gift or collection, look for an explicit hand-embroidered description or ask the maker. Decorative stitches alone do not establish that claim.

Further reading: BERNINA.

Appliqué attaches a fabric shape to another piece of fabric as decoration. Patchwork joins separate pieces together to make a larger piece. A cloth can combine both techniques, so the terms are not mutually exclusive. When a listing mentions either method, check the close-up photographs or ask which parts are separate fabric pieces. A patchwork-looking arrangement of colours is not enough to identify its construction.

Further reading: BERNINA.

Yarn-dyed cotton has its yarn coloured before the cloth is woven or knitted. Piece dyeing colours fabric after it has been made. Different coloured yarns can create woven checks or stripes, but these terms primarily identify when colouring happens. For a cloth or garment, use the description to understand its production rather than assuming either label guarantees a particular colourfastness or care routine.

Further reading: National Cotton Council.

No. A lining is made as a separate inner layer and attached inside the garment, covering its seam allowances. Interfacing supports selected areas such as collars, cuffs, waistbands or openings. A garment can contain both. When comparing clothing descriptions, ask whether lined refers to the whole garment or only a section. Check the materials of the inner and outer layers rather than assuming they match.

Further reading: New Mexico State University.

Bias binding uses fabric strips cut diagonally across the grain. True bias lies at 45 degrees to the selvedge and has more give than the lengthwise or crosswise direction, which helps it follow curves. The word describes the strip’s cutting direction, not a fibre or colour. If a cloth lists a contrasting bound edge, check the trim material separately from the main fabric.

Further reading: American Sewing Guild.